Feel the monsoon in Wayanad

Between June and September, Wayanad turns a green you will not otherwise see, the waterfalls run at their fullest, and the resort is almost yours alone. It rains. That is rather the point.

What the monsoon actually does to this place

The hills go a green that photographs never quite carry. Mist sits in the folds of the Western Ghats in the mornings and lifts through the day. Streams that were dry in April run hard. Soochipara and the other falls are at their fullest and loudest, and Banasura Sagar fills until the islands shrink back into it.

It also empties out. The tour buses go elsewhere between June and September, which means the roads are quiet, the viewpoints are empty and a resort that is peaceful in December is close to silent in July.

What it is like to stay here in the rain

Both suites have a private balcony, which in the monsoon is the best seat on the property — watching a downpour come across the valley is most of the entertainment. Rooms are air-conditioned, hot water runs around the clock, and there are indoor games for the afternoons that do not let up. The campfire still gets lit whenever there is a gap in the weather.

What to know before you book

Kuruva Island closes during the monsoon and after heavy rain — the Kabini runs too high to cross safely, so do not build a trip around it. Chembra Peak and Pakshipathalam are steep and slick in the wet, and permits can be withheld. Leeches are a genuine feature of forest walks in these months; socks and a little salt handle them.

Bring shoes you do not mind soaking, something waterproof, and lower expectations about photography and higher ones about sitting still.

When to come

June and July are the heaviest. August and September ease off while the greenery holds, which is the sweet spot for most people. October into November is the post-monsoon: everything freshly washed, waterfalls still strong, and the trails open again. Our season-by-season guide goes through the whole year.

Where you would stay

Rooms & suites